Tuesday, September 13, 2016

Fukamushi Sencha

There are three main styles of sencha based on steamed time.   Asamushi (light steaming) sencha is steamed for less than 30 seconds, futsuumushi (regular steaming) for 30 seconds to 1 minute, and fukamushi (deep steaming) about 1 to 2 minutes.  Steaming process is the traditional Japanese method of arresting oxidation after the tea leaves are plucked.

Longer steaming reduces astringency but makes the leaves fragile. The dried leaves of fukamushi sencha contain more smaller particles than those of asamushi or futsuumushi sencha.

regular (left) and deep steamed (right) senchas

This sencha was grown in Shizuoka prefecture.  The tea has a thicker mouth feel and a darker color than a regular sencha.  It is less bitter and less astringent.

Fukamushi sencha

Type:  Green   Producing Country: Japan    Preparation:  85°C 1 Min

Dry Leaf:  The leaves are dark green needles and broken pieces,
Wet Leaf:  The soft olive green leaves are mushy like cooked vegetables.
Liquor:      The olive green tea is cloudy.  It has some bitterness similar to cooked arugula.  Its flavor is predominately vegetal (spinach and zucchini) and refreshing.

Tee Score: 4 out of 5

Thursday, August 25, 2016

King Cole Tea

New Brunswick is one of Canadian Atlantic provinces.   New Brunswick was also one of the first provinces to join the Dominion of Canada in 1867, the same year two Barbour brothers established a food wholesale business in Saint John.   In 1910, the King Cole, from a British nursery rhyme "Old King Cole",  tea brand was introduced.   Red Rose is another brand that traces its origins to Saint John, New Brunswick.

Saint John, New Brunswick

Bay of Fundy, New Brunswick

After over 100 years, King Cole tea continues to be popular in the maritime provinces, more so than Nova Scotia's Morse's tea.   It was reported that a 60's box of King Cole tea was presented to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II in Moncton, NB, during her Royal visit to Canada in 2002.

King Cole 60 box

King Cole Orange Pekoe tea is a blend of black teas from Asia and Africa. Each tea bag makes a mug of full-bodied, bold, malty but comforting tea with or without milk.   It's strong, dark and good as a breakfast tea.

A mug of Kingcole

Wednesday, July 27, 2016

Tree Frog Green

The Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island may not be a tropical paradise, but it has the warmest average annual temperature in Canada, at balmy 11°C/52°F.   Its climate is conducive to growing grapes, in particular, the pinot varieties.   Tea or camellia sinensis appears to enjoy flourishing in the same terroir.   The Cowichan Valley is a region infused with arts, wines, and now tea.

The Teafarm, an organic farm located in Cowichan, began planting tea shrubs in 2010 and harvested its fruits of labor in 2016.  The first Canadian grown single estate tea was launched on July 1, 2016, eh?


Tree Frog Green is a first flush green tea.   The young leaves were picked, heated, rolled and dried.   The loose dried leaves include small to medium size buds and leaves.


This tea seems to be able to tolerate a longer steeping time or higher water temperature.   It can be infused 2 to 3 times.  The infusion is pale golden yellow and it is soft.

Tree Frog Green

Type:  Green  Producing Country: Canada  Preparation:  85°C 4-5 Min

Dry Leaf:  The dark olive green twisted leaves are fresh and faintly biscuity.  There are leaves and leaves with buds.
Wet Leaf:  The leaves are olive green and have pleasant and slight aromas of spices, herbs and raisins.
Liquor:      The yellow tea is sweet (but not sugary, more like Chinese licorice root's 'Gan') with undertones of spices (cloves, cinnamon and herbs) and steamed green beans.  It barely has any bitterness or astringency.   It is very light.

Tee Score: 4 out of 5


Saturday, June 4, 2016

Taiwan Bi Luo Chun

Sanxia, near Taipei, in Taiwan is known for its Old Street,  Zushi Temple and tea.   Historically, Sanxia had always produced some green tea.   Green tea production there was revitalized after 1949 by the demand of those consumers who followed Chiang Kai-shek's nationalists from China to Taiwan.  The main green teas made in Sanxia are Long Jing (Dragon Well) and Bi Luo Chun (Green Snail Spring).

Sanxia Old Street
Zushi Temple
Sanxia's Bi Luo Chun and China's Bi Luo Chun are not alike.  They are produced from two different cultivars.

left: China Biluochun  right: Taiwan Biluochun

Sanxia's Bi Luo Chun comes from Chin Shin Gan Zhi cultivar.   One bud and two leaves are picked in the spring and fall to produce the tea.  This Bi Luo Chun is from a 4th generation tea farmer/maker.

Chin Shin Gan Zhi






JC Tea company - 4th generation tea maker










This tea embodies the characteristics of typical fine Chinese green tea: light vegetal and not grassy.    It is an excellent summer tea.

Sanxia Biluochun

Type:  Green   Producing Country: Taiwan   Preparation:  85°C 2 Min

Dry Leaf:  The dark green twisted leaves are biscuity and fresh.
Wet Leaf:  The leaves smell honey and somewhat floral.
Liquor:      The pale yellow or lime green tea is sweet, smooth, slightly peachy and vegetal.  It is airy and has no bitterness.

Tee Score: 5 out of 5

Monday, May 23, 2016

Rou Gui Oolong

Mount Wuyi in Fujian, China, is a UNESCO World Heritage site.   The Wuyi topography is a landscape of majestic mountains, characterized by rocks, sandstones and rivers.   Many oolong teas are cultivated in this area, and they are commonly referred to as 'rock' teas.   The four well-known ones are Big Red Robe,  Iron Arhat, White Cockscomb and Water Golden Turtle. The more popular and affordable ones include Rou Gui and Shui Xian (Narcissus Flower).   Due to the terroir, Wuyi teas are said to embody unique 'rock bone' essence.  That is, these oolongs could figuratively transport you to the beauty of the Wuyi mountains through your cup.

Rou Gui is cinnamon or cassia bark in Chinese.   The Rou Gui cultivar is one of the many tea bush varieties in Wuyi.  This oolong is about 40% oxidized and medium-fired.   It is a comforting and warming tea.

Rou Gui

Type:  Oolong   Producing Country: China    Preparation:  95°C 4 Min

Dry Leaf:  The leaves are dark brown, medium-sized and twisted. They have layers of aromas: exotic guavas, burning coals, herbal spices and white flowers.
Wet Leaf:  The dark brown leaves are toasty and slightly peppery.
Liquor:      The orange amber tea is toasty and chocolaty.  It is faintly sweet, fruity and herbaceous.  Its mouth feel is dry.

Tee Score: 4 out of 5

Saturday, April 30, 2016

Medium-Fired High Mountain Oolong

The purpose of firing or baking at the final stage of tea processing is to improve or enhance the aromas and flavors of tea.   Firing is not meant for all teas but it works wonderfully for some oolong teas.   After oolong leaves have been rolled and shaped, they are quickly dried to remove extra moisture as well as to retain shape.   Depending on the desired outcome of a oolong, an experienced and skilled tea master will determine if firing is required and the temperatures and times of the firing step.   Traditionally, tea is placed in giant bamboo baskets, underneath which charcoal heat source is applied over a long period of time.   Contemporarily, alternative heat source (e.g., wood and electricity) and equipment are popular.   For example,  below is a small commercial tea baking oven available on the market:

tea baking oven

This medium-fired oolong is made from Qing Xin (green heart) cultivar grown at 3600 feet in Meishan area, southwest of Luku, in Taiwan.  It went through three-step slow firing.   It is more complex and richer than a 'green' type of oolong, and is best enjoyed using a multiple-infusion method to appreciate the depth and layers of the tea.  

Medium-fired oolong

Type:  Oolong   Producing Country: Taiwan   Preparation:  90°C 5 Min

Dry Leaf:  These nice beads are clean, sweet and slightly toasty.   Hardly any stems are found.
Wet Leaf:  The wet leaves are seductively sweet and aromatic.
Liquor:     A 5-minute, 2 g and 4 oz cupping produces an orange color liquor that is smooth, fragrant, sweet and floral.   When steeped a la Gong Fu, the first infusion is nutty or honey-nuttty.  The next infusion is about sweet honey and flowers.  The last infusion includes nice notes of orchid and wood.

Tee Score: 5 out of 5

Thursday, March 24, 2016

Ethnic Group Pu'er Teas

Xishuangbana Mengyang Guoyan Tea Factory in Yunnan, China, produced sets of ethnic minority pu'er cakes in 2004/5 and 2006/7.   Each set contains four cakes, representing four ethnic groups (Hani, Bulang, Jinuo and Dai), the tea trees grown around the areas they reside, and their pu'er processes.  There are at least twenty-five minority groups in Yunnan and the majority of them have very rich tea cultures.

  • Hani ethnic group: High Mountain Cloud Mist cake from early spring tea leaves picked from Nan Nuo Mountain
Hani High Mountain Cloud Misty Pu'er

  • Bulang ethnic group: Organic Ecology cake from tea leaves grown by Bulang people on Bulang Mountain
Bulang Organic Ecology Pu'er

  • Jinuo ethnic group: Longpa Ancient Arbor cake from Youle Mountain Longpa Ancient Tea Garden's tea leaves
Jinuo Longpa Ancient Arbor Pu'er

  • Dai ethnic group: Daughter's Tribute cake with leaves picked by single young Dai girls.   
Dai Daughter's Tribute Pu'er

A comparative tasting of the 2004/2005 sample teas, Yunnan storage, is below. Methodology: 2 g leaves, 100ml water, 100C, one rinse and 5-minute brewing time.

Minority
Liquor
Leaves
Tasting
Hani
Golden amber
Leaves a bit smaller than Bulang’s and more compressed
Medium body, citrusy, plummy, sweet, some astringency
Bulang
Golden amber orange
Larger leaves
Thick, woody, licorice bitter sweet, spicy and lengthy in the mouth
Jinuo
Amber orange
Some buds and more chopped younger leaves
Medium to light body, wet rattanish, smooth but not complex
Dai
Light brown
More whole younger leaves
Medium body, sweet, mellow with a light sandalwood/incense aroma