Wednesday, November 15, 2017

Shizuoka Japan

Fujisan or Mount Fuji, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a symbol of Japan.  It is geographically located in Shizuoka Prefecture, whose capital Shizuoka city is situated between Tokyo and Kyoto.  Fujisan still exudes an air of majesty even without its usual snow-capped top.  It is the highest mountain in Japan.

A view of Mt. Fuji from the University of Shizuoka in October, 2017

Having Japan's highest mountain Fujisan and deepest bay Suruga in its region, Shizuoka Prefecture is a hotbed for agriculture, forestry, fishery and vroom-vroom motorcycle industries, and is widely known for its two 'green' treasures.  One is wasabi, the quintessential condiment for sashimi and sushi.  Shizuoka is the birthplace and the leading producer of wasabi in Japan.  To serve it, freshly grated wasabi is divine but a tube of ready-to-use paste is handy.


Wasabi grater and fresh wasabi















The other green treasure of Shizuoka is none other than tea.  Shizuoka means quiet hills in Japanese.  The quiet hills are alive with the sound of tea leaves!  Being the number one tea producer in the country, Shizuoka's tea fields cover about 17,400 hectares of land and counted 9,617 tea farmers in 2015.  In other words, 40% of total tea area and 50% of total tea farmers in Japan are in this prefecture.  The tea farmers have the strong support of local government (i.e., Tea Industry Development Division) for growing their businesses.  

Shizuoka tea field

Tea in Japan is synonymous with green tea.  Tea leaves are customarily steamed to arrest oxidation after they are harvested.   Afterwards, tea leaves undergo the processes of rolling before they are dried.  The majority of Japanese green tea is sencha.  Sencha can be regular or deep steamed.  Deep steaming or fukamushi allows tea to become milder and less astringent.  Fukamushi sencha was pioneered in Shizuoka!

The following images were taken at the Center for Education and Research in Field Sciences of Shizuoka University.  The heritage equipment works wonders.



The suave sencha below was crafted by the participants of Japanese Tea Export Council Tea Study program held in October, 2017.  The fresh leaves were from the Shizuoka University's tea farm.  The fine rolling was not performed by a machine but by many pairs of hands (temomi process) under the guidance of a skilled tea maker.

Sencha made by participants

Temomi

In addition to sencha, Shizuoka also manufactures other types of tea, including semi-oxidized oolong and fully-oxidized black tea.  Here is a list of more readily available green teas on the market.  Shade-grown green teas, such as Gyokuro, contain higher levels of chlorophyll.

Tea
Shade
Grown
Notes
Sencha
No
Regular and Fukamushi
Guricha
No
Leaves are not rolled.
Kukicha
No
Stems and twigs
Bancha
No
Late harvest
Gyokuro
Yes
About 20 days shading
Kabusecha
Yes
About 10-14 days
Tencha
Yes
About 20 days
Matcha
Yes
Stone ground Tencha
Hojicha
No
Roasted green tea
Genmaicha
No
Green tea + roasted rice



For all the tea in Japan or Shizuoka, Yabukita is the most widespread plant variety or cultivar to date.   It was a Shizuoka farmer Sugiyama Hikosaburo who developed and named the cultivar in the early 20th century.  Kudos to Shizuoka!  Along with Yabukita, there are many other cultivars thriving in the landscape of Shizuoka.   Although Yabukita yields reliable and quality crops, the other varieties offer diversity for both farmers and consumers.

Sofu cultivar tasting

The secrets to Japanese green tea preparation include soft water, adequate leaf to water ratio, lower water temperature, shorter steeping time and proper brewing vessels.  A tasty cup of Japanese tea may be described as well-balanced flavors of umami, sweetness, astringency and bitterness.  Furthermore, the vegetal and iodized aromas should embody the spirit of the terroir.  No perfumes have yet captured the essence of Japanese tea, not even Jo Malone's Japanese sencha inspired Jade Leaf Tea Cologne. 

Drinking tea not only quenches thirst but also likely maintains well-being.  The Tea Science Center at the University of Shizuoka has been conducting research into the health benefits of Japanese green tea.  The findings thus far indicate promising and positive effects of catechins, the main chemical components in green tea, on health; for example, alleviating stress, preventing influenza and managing dementia.  Myoan Eisai, the 12th century zen monk who brought back tea seeds from China, was probably right when he wrote, "Tea is the ultimate mental and medical remedy with the ability to make one's life more full and complete."

cantaloupe flavor kit kat and matcha - a balanced diet


Thursday, February 16, 2017

Batabata Cha

Toyama Prefecture sits along the coastline of Sea of Japan and is about 300 km NW of Tokyo.  The region produces a fermented dark tea called Batabata Cha, traditionally served whisked into a foam on special occasions, or served unwhisked at anytime.  A Japanese scientific study published in 2004 indicated this brew contains a significant amount of Vitamin B12.



Batabata Cha, with its history dating back hundreds of years, can likely trace its origin to China.  To produce this tea:
  1. Mature tea leaves are harvested in August. 
  2. Leaves are steamed until they are yellowish brown.   
  3. Leaves are dried on a straw mat for half a day.
  4. Leaves are placed in a wooden box, with controlled temperatures not higher than 60 C, for fermentation.  
  5. Leaves are stirred or loosened every few days during the month long fermentation.
  6. Leaves are dried in shade for half a day and then in the sun for a couple days.  
The dried leaves are large, dark brown, crisp and fragile.  They smell like the inside of  grandmothers' wooden chests.   Use about 3 g of leaves for 16 oz of water.  Boil or steep the leaves for a minimum of 10 minutes.

dried leaves

boiling batabata


Serve it unwhisked.  Its flavor profile can be described as woodsy, earthy and methanol, reminiscent of some Chinese raw pu'er.  It is medium-light bodied and  has a nice long finish.

unwhisked Batabata tea

Add a pinch of salt and whisk it.   A special double-headed long whisk is required to create a foamy tea.  Using a matcha whisk only makes a thin layer of bubbles (see below).   The motion to whisk batabata cha is left and right, striking the bowl and making a 'batabata' sound.  The whisked tea becomes very mild and loses its woodsy and earthy characters.

Whisked tea using a matcha whisk 

Monday, October 31, 2016

Pomelo Tea Experiment

Orange pu'er is ripe pu'er stuffed in mandarin oranges and aged.  Pomelos are also used for keeping pu'er.  In Taiwan, Hakka people preserve oolong in pomelos.  The creation of these dark oranges or pomelos is labor intensive and time consuming.  These teas are often valued for their touted medicinal properties from the combination of pectin and polysaccharide structures.

The two pomelo wrinklies below are the fruits of home experiment.
pomelo teas 
Steps:
  1. Rinsed and dried 2 California-grown organic pomelos.
  2. Cut an opening/a lid in each fruit.
  3. Scooped out the meat to create cavities.  
  4. Packed tea in each hollowed pomelo skin.
  5. Put the lids back and bound with heat-proof strings.  
  6. Baked in the oven at 200 F for 3 hours, or longer for a darker appearance.
  7. Placed them in a well-vented area for 8 months.   

One pomelo contains inexpensive grocery store bought black tea fannings.

black tea pomelo

One contains a blend of two 'can't remember' green teas. 
green tea pomelo

The pomelos themselves still have a nice citrus fragrance.  The tea leaves and fannings are very dried and show no signs of mould.  The green tea is drinkable and has a hint of citrus fruit.  The black tea has a flavor similar to dishwater.  P. D. James, an English crime write, said,  "There comes a time when every scientist, even God, has to write off an experiment."



Tuesday, September 13, 2016

Fukamushi Sencha

There are three main styles of sencha based on steamed time.   Asamushi (light steaming) sencha is steamed for less than 30 seconds, futsuumushi (regular steaming) for 30 seconds to 1 minute, and fukamushi (deep steaming) about 1 to 2 minutes.  Steaming process is the traditional Japanese method of arresting oxidation after the tea leaves are plucked.

Longer steaming reduces astringency but makes the leaves fragile. The dried leaves of fukamushi sencha contain more smaller particles than those of asamushi or futsuumushi sencha.

regular (left) and deep steamed (right) senchas

This sencha was grown in Shizuoka prefecture.  The tea has a thicker mouth feel and a darker color than a regular sencha.  It is less bitter and less astringent.

Fukamushi sencha

Type:  Green   Producing Country: Japan    Preparation:  85°C 1 Min

Dry Leaf:  The leaves are dark green needles and broken pieces,
Wet Leaf:  The soft olive green leaves are mushy like cooked vegetables.
Liquor:      The olive green tea is cloudy.  It has some bitterness similar to cooked arugula.  Its flavor is predominately vegetal (spinach and zucchini) and refreshing.

Tee Score: 4 out of 5

Thursday, August 25, 2016

King Cole Tea

New Brunswick is one of Canadian Atlantic provinces.   New Brunswick was also one of the first provinces to join the Dominion of Canada in 1867, the same year two Barbour brothers established a food wholesale business in Saint John.   In 1910, the King Cole, from a British nursery rhyme "Old King Cole",  tea brand was introduced.   Red Rose is another brand that traces its origins to Saint John, New Brunswick.

Saint John, New Brunswick

Bay of Fundy, New Brunswick

After over 100 years, King Cole tea continues to be popular in the maritime provinces, more so than Nova Scotia's Morse's tea.   It was reported that a 60's box of King Cole tea was presented to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II in Moncton, NB, during her Royal visit to Canada in 2002.

King Cole 60 box

King Cole Orange Pekoe tea is a blend of black teas from Asia and Africa. Each tea bag makes a mug of full-bodied, bold, malty but comforting tea with or without milk.   It's strong, dark and good as a breakfast tea.

A mug of Kingcole

Wednesday, July 27, 2016

Tree Frog Green

The Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island may not be a tropical paradise, but it has the warmest average annual temperature in Canada, at balmy 11°C/52°F.   Its climate is conducive to growing grapes, in particular, the pinot varieties.   Tea or camellia sinensis appears to enjoy flourishing in the same terroir.   The Cowichan Valley is a region infused with arts, wines, and now tea.

The Teafarm, an organic farm located in Cowichan, began planting tea shrubs in 2010 and harvested its fruits of labor in 2016.  The first Canadian grown single estate tea was launched on July 1, 2016, eh?


Tree Frog Green is a first flush green tea.   The young leaves were picked, heated, rolled and dried.   The loose dried leaves include small to medium size buds and leaves.


This tea seems to be able to tolerate a longer steeping time or higher water temperature.   It can be infused 2 to 3 times.  The infusion is pale golden yellow and it is soft.

Tree Frog Green

Type:  Green  Producing Country: Canada  Preparation:  85°C 4-5 Min

Dry Leaf:  The dark olive green twisted leaves are fresh and faintly biscuity.  There are leaves and leaves with buds.
Wet Leaf:  The leaves are olive green and have pleasant and slight aromas of spices, herbs and raisins.
Liquor:      The yellow tea is sweet (but not sugary, more like Chinese licorice root's 'Gan') with undertones of spices (cloves, cinnamon and herbs) and steamed green beans.  It barely has any bitterness or astringency.   It is very light.

Tee Score: 4 out of 5


Saturday, June 4, 2016

Taiwan Bi Luo Chun

Sanxia, near Taipei, in Taiwan is known for its Old Street,  Zushi Temple and tea.   Historically, Sanxia had always produced some green tea.   Green tea production there was revitalized after 1949 by the demand of those consumers who followed Chiang Kai-shek's nationalists from China to Taiwan.  The main green teas made in Sanxia are Long Jing (Dragon Well) and Bi Luo Chun (Green Snail Spring).

Sanxia Old Street
Zushi Temple
Sanxia's Bi Luo Chun and China's Bi Luo Chun are not alike.  They are produced from two different cultivars.

left: China Biluochun  right: Taiwan Biluochun

Sanxia's Bi Luo Chun comes from Chin Shin Gan Zhi cultivar.   One bud and two leaves are picked in the spring and fall to produce the tea.  This Bi Luo Chun is from a 4th generation tea farmer/maker.

Chin Shin Gan Zhi






JC Tea company - 4th generation tea maker










This tea embodies the characteristics of typical fine Chinese green tea: light vegetal and not grassy.    It is an excellent summer tea.

Sanxia Biluochun

Type:  Green   Producing Country: Taiwan   Preparation:  85°C 2 Min

Dry Leaf:  The dark green twisted leaves are biscuity and fresh.
Wet Leaf:  The leaves smell honey and somewhat floral.
Liquor:      The pale yellow or lime green tea is sweet, smooth, slightly peachy and vegetal.  It is airy and has no bitterness.

Tee Score: 5 out of 5